Getting Out: One hundred years ago, the Santa Cruz Mountains,
like most accessible regions of California coastal forest, were
largely reduced to vast reaches of stump stubble. The massive
migration to the hope and promise of California that began with the
gold rush, as well as the effort to rebuild a devastated San
Francisco, created a pressing demand for lumber. In 1900, a group
of citizens, in an effort to save some of this virgin forest,
formed the Sempervirens Club. After two years of tireless work, Big
Basin State Park became California’s first state park. On a hike
there Saturday, I was reminded of the thanks we owe those who saved
this land.
One hundred years ago, the Santa Cruz Mountains, like most accessible regions of California coastal forest, were largely reduced to vast reaches of stump stubble. The massive migration to the hope and promise of California that began with the gold rush, as well as the effort to rebuild a devastated San Francisco, created a pressing demand for lumber.
In 1900, a group of citizens, in an effort to save some of this virgin forest, formed the Sempervirens Club. After two years of tireless work, Big Basin State Park became California’s first state park. On a hike there Saturday, I was reminded of the thanks we owe those who saved this land.
Dolores Kent loves to hike but not alone. In order to generate companions for her passion, Kent has pulled together a group of friends that occasionally gather for a day on the trail. Saturday, I joined them on a long loop that included one of Big Basin’s marquis attractions, Big Berry Falls.
Rather than the shorter out-and-back route along the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail, we decided to take a slightly longer loop that led out the Sunset Trail, connected to the Berry Creek Falls Trail, then returned on the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail — 11 miles in all.
I have written that I do not prefer hiking in the wooded country. I feel closed in and miss the wide views of open country. Big Basin is an exception. Unlike the dark shrouded aspect of many second-growth forests, trees in this ancient first-growth forest are more widely spaced, allowing more light to reach the forest floor and giving it a more spacious feeling.
Any route to the falls begins with a 400-foot climb from Opal Creek up Middle Ridge. Beyond the ridge, Sunset Trail rolls through the forest and past feeder streams heading for Waddell Creek below. The cinnamon bark of the massive ancient redwoods along the trail adds a warm glow to light here that is missing in many forests. How many times did we stop, tilt back our heads and look up in amazement at a group of massive tree trunks disappear into the sky above? Massive girth. Incredible height.
At Sunset Trail Camp, our halfway point, we caught the Berry Creek Falls Trail — and the show truly began. We descended steeply, sometimes with the aid of steps and railings, past a series of amazing cascades and falls. Even in mid-July, plenty of water splashed down, creating every possible mood. A calm pool collected water at the bottom of a sheer 40-foot drop, followed quickly by a short 10-foot fall. Then the water gathered and the creek quietly twisted through a lovely fern garden only to do it all again downstream.
Finally, at the bottom of the mile-long descent, we arrived at the main attraction: Berry Creek Falls. From the wooden platform below the falls, we sat transfixed watching the long threads of water bounce down the 75-foot rock face into a fern grotto. It was like a picture from some tropical travel brochure.
There was still work to do. We were four and a half miles from the car with plenty of climbing yet to do. We picked up the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail for the return trip. By the time we reached the parking lot, we were glad to be back.
Without question, the short Berry Creek Falls Trail in the middle of our hike held world-class sights. But even if you don’t go all the way to the falls, the amazing height and girth of the ancient redwoods along any trail will astound you.
Thank goodness for those far-sighted tree huggers 100 years ago.
