Eating through winter
Even though we can buy just about anything we would care to put
into our mouths at just about any time of the year, it’s funny how
often what we’re craving is what’s in season locally.
Eating through winter
Even though we can buy just about anything we would care to put into our mouths at just about any time of the year, it’s funny how often what we’re craving is what’s in season locally.
Just when I feel as if a fresh peach would be the best thing in the world, voila! Bring on the fresh peaches.
This time of year, the fruit bowl always holds lots of citrus. The backyard blood orange tree gets raided for salads and snacks.
The only other things really happening in the garden right now are the hardy winter greens. Bok choi, pak choi and Japanese red mustard are flourishing, along with curly endive and some winter-friendly lettuce.
And that’s about it, but that’s okay, because it’s just what seems to appeal most to us.
Monday, a bunch of beets came home. The beets got wrapped in foil and roasted in the oven until tender. They need about 40 minutes in a 375 degree oven and when they yield a bit, they can be left to cool until they can be handled. The peel slips off then, and the beets are ready for the table.
It amazes me when someone says they throw away the beet tops. They were the first thing we ate on Monday.
After washing, it’s easy to slice the leaves away from the central rib. The ribs can be cut in short lengths and the greens chopped.
By keeping the two separate, the tougher stems can cook, with the greens added for the last few minutes.
Beet tops are so closely related to chard that the two are interchangeable. Here’s a quick one that feeds four to six as a side dish.
Chard with garlic
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, halved and sliced thin
4 medium garlic cloves, chopped
2 ½ lbs. chard or beet tops (about 12 packed cups – it really cooks down)
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Heat the oil in a deep pot big enough to hold all the greens. Add onions and chopped stems from the greens and saute until the onions start to brown, about seven or eight minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant. Add the beet or chard greens and stir to coat everything with the onions, oil and garlic. Stir it a few more times until it wilts, about five minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
If you prefer to just deal with the stems and use the greens for something else, a Bay Area restaurant has been serving them as an appetizer, breaded and fried and served with a dip of flavored mayonnaise.
Or, you might try a simple gratin of the stems.
Baked chard
A large handful of stems – about a pound, parboiled and refreshed in cool water, drained
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
¾ c. freshly grated Parmesan
Trim away any bruised spots on the stems while the oven preheats at 400 degrees. Butter a shallow dish. Add the chard, dot with the remaining butter and sprinkle with cheese. Bake until chard is tender, about 25 minutes.
