Be daring: eat an anchovy
When the flush of produce really comes into its own in
midsummer, the volume of it can be overwhelming.
Just about everyone has experienced a late-night
”
gift
”
of homegrown zucchini, left by a gardener facing too much to eat
but lacking the resolve to throw the surplus away.
Be daring: eat an anchovy
When the flush of produce really comes into its own in midsummer, the volume of it can be overwhelming.
Just about everyone has experienced a late-night “gift” of homegrown zucchini, left by a gardener facing too much to eat but lacking the resolve to throw the surplus away.
But there are solutions to a cornucopia gone wild. In French, it’s crudites – but to most of us, it’s a tray of raw vegetables. Most of the time, the accompaniment is a bowl of ranch dressing.
With the weather gauge reading “perfect” Sunday, we settled in around a vividly colored plate of vegetables, bits of toasted French bread and matchsticks of manchego cheese, the latter a sharp, Spanish product made from sheep’s milk. There were wedges of fennel and heirloom tomatoes, celery, cucumber and – because we overlooked it – no strips of peppers, but they would have been nice.
But this time, the ranch stayed in the refrigerator.
A few minutes before people arrived, I went to the garden, grabbed a handful of basil and another of flat-leafed parsley, and headed back inside.
Before I go on, I’ll predict that many of you are about to stop reading, because the recipe involves anchovies. If you just can’t bear the thought of them, leave them out. But if you’re brave or, like me, someone who understands what they can do to a dish, you won’t be sorry.
Anchovies are a great source of umami, a flavor component distinct from the basic four: salt, sweet, sour and bitter. It’s a hard-to-describe savory flavor; think parmesan cheese. That’s why the aromatic little fishes are lurking in every bottle of Worcestershire sauce. Do yourself a favor and give the anchovies a try. This sauce tastes of garlic and fresh herbs, with the anchovies hiding somewhere in the background and adding complexity, not strong fishiness.
Anchovy Dip for Vegetables
4 anchovy fillets
4 lg. garlic cloves
1 c. olive oil
1-2 tbsp. fresh basil
1-2 tbsp. fresh flat-leafed parsley
1 tbsp. capers, drained
1 tbsp. red wine vinegar
ground pepper, to taste
assorted vegetables
sharp cheese
fingers of toasted bread
Place the anchovies in a medium bowl with a splash of the olive oil and mash with a fork until blended. Chop garlic, basil, parsley and capers and add to the anchovies. Add vinegar and the remainder of the oil. Stir and add pepper to taste. Serve with vegetables, toast and cheese for dipping.
This makes a lot of a sauce that’s used pretty sparingly, but don’t be surprised if people go through a lot. As we sat around the garden on Sunday, the dogs hovered underneath to lap up any stray drops, and the food disappeared pretty quickly.
It’s easy to expand the platter to make it the center of a light dinner by adding more ingredients or even hard-cooked egg wedges.
