Just about every holiday features a must have menu item. For my family, the Christian holiday of Good Friday would not be the same without Pogaca.
If there is one cultural food item I was influenced by on my fathers side of the family, it would be Pogaca. The unique Croatian bread item is considered a cousin of pizza. Pogaca has a top and bottom bread layer with a savory center filling. There are many fillings for pogaca, but my family’s version contains tomatoes, onions and anchovies.
How this became a traditional Good Friday item for my father’s family may be lost. If not for my Aunt Victoria, the recipe might have been lost too. Many years ago, my curiosity led me to her kitchen with a baking pan, defrosted bread dough and an eagerness to learn. The Pogaca was made with a jar of Prego, but the lesson and instructions taught me how a good Pogaca should be made.
This recipe is a rare instance where most of the time, I do not make my own dough. The Bridgford brand is the one I learned with, but most supermarket bakeries sell French bread dough. One pound of dough may be used for the carbohydrate conscious, but will make a thinner bottom and top. Use 2/3 for the bottom dough and 1/3 for the top. A Pogaca meal is complete with soup or salad.
Pogaca
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
• 2 pounds bread dough
• 1/4 cup olive oil plus more for brushing
• 1 large onion, sliced into 3/4″ dice
• 3 cloves garlic, sliced
• 28 ounce can whole plum or San Marzano tomatoes
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 can anchovies
• 2 tablespoons coarse chopped parsley
Step 1: Heat the olive oil in a heavy bottom pot over medium high. Add the onions and sauté until they start to become translucent and brown. Add the garlic and continue to stir until they begin to soften. Hand crush the tomatoes into the pot and add any liquid remaining in the can, followed by the salt. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes. Add the anchovies and continue to simmer an additional 15 minutes until the liquid is evaporated and the mixture has thickened. Remove from heat, stir in the parsley and allow the mixture cool for 30 minutes.
Step 2: Roll out one pound of dough so it extends over the sides of a quarter sheet baking pan. Brush the sheet pan with olive oil and transfer the dough to the pan pressing the dough into the corners and sides. Roll the second pound of dough to a size that will stretch to the edges of the sheet pan. Spread the tomato mixture evenly over the dough in the sheet pan. Place the second piece of dough over the tomato mixture. Fold the sides of the bottom dough over the top of the second piece of dough. Allow to rise for 30 minutes.
Step 3: Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Using a sharp knife, cut some slits into the top piece of dough to allow venting. Brush the top piece of dough with olive oil. Bake in the bottom half of the oven for 35 minutes until the top crust is browned.
Step 4: Allow the Pogaca to cool and set for 10 minutes, then remove it from the sheet pan. Slice into squares and serve.
Mitch L. Mariani II is a self-taught amateur chef. Reach him at [email protected].
