Spend a weekend discovering the wineries
of Hollister’s Cienega Valley
By Theresa Martin
Whether adobe or concrete, imported or converted, the wineries
of the Cienega Valley are an eclectic mix of architecture as
diverse and complex as the wines produced within them.
Spend a weekend discovering the wineries
of Hollister’s Cienega Valley
By Theresa Martin
Whether adobe or concrete, imported or converted, the wineries of the Cienega Valley are an eclectic mix of architecture as diverse and complex as the wines produced within them.
Before San Benito County was home to a town named Hollister, the Cienega Valley was planted in grape vines. In 1868, William Hollister sold his land grant known as Rancho San Justo to a group who would later form a town and name it Hollister in his honor. But in 1853, when the District of San Benito was still part of Monterey County, a Frenchman by the name of Theophile Vache showed up here searching for suitable soil and a climate good for grape growing. He found the Cienega Valley to be favorable and settled there, planting vine clippings imported from his family’s vineyards in France.
Later, around 1883, William Palmtag, one of Hollister’s founding fathers, purchased a portion of the vineyard from Vache. This became known as Palmtag Vineyard. His wines were of high enough quality to win silver medals at the 1900 World Exposition in Paris. Today, a handful of boutique wineries in the area continue to produce award-winning wines from those same vines.
The architecture of the wineries is a mix of old and new, one reason the Cienega Valley draws national attention. Another reason is the wine it produces. Both have a story to tell.
The first winery along Hollister’s dedicated wine trail is the DeRose Winery. According to winemaker Pat DeRose, this is the oldest winery in California to maintain continuous production. It was at this location, just up the hill towards Pietra Santa Winery, that Theophile Vache planted his vines. A building on the right was originally a carriage house built of adobe brick. Wine barrels, fruits and nuts were hauled to San Juan Bautista to market via horse and cart. In the 1950s the carriage house became a tasting room and today it is the DeRose Event Center. The shaded patio of this building makes a lovely picnic spot.
DeRose’s main winery was the second to be built over the top of the San Andreas Fault and has shifting walls and cracks in the concrete floor. The winery is a national natural landmark. Tools, barrels and hoses are just as much a part of the furnishings as the beautifully hand-painted wine bottles displayed in the tasting area. Behind the main building is a classic car museum, open between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. the first Saturday of each month.
At the corner of DeRose Winery, turn right and head up the long driveway to Pietra Santa Winery. Passing through the iron gates is like passing into another era. The 100-year-old two-story cottage to the right, a tribute to Frank Lloyd Wright, is surrounded by some 100-year-old vines. It houses a wine cellar in the basement, and serves as a private event center to the winery. Further up the drive is a mission-style winery built in 1998. It features oversized wood doors and a dramatic bell tower. The 300-year-old tile roof was imported from Italy. It offers spectacular views of rolling vineyards and olive trees. Wine caves are also present on the property. The winery is on the first floor, along with an olive press room. The tasting room is located upstairs. Soft Italian music wafts through the entire facility. A small picnic area is located on a patio next to the vineyard.
Continuing east is Calera Wine Company. The main building has somewhat of a corporate look with large windows overlooking the valley below. The winery is built into the mountain. Originally constructed as a multi-level rock crushing facility, the many levels provide the gentlest possible handing in gravity-flow wine processing, says winery owner Josh Jensen. Jensen says using gravity prevents the wine from bruising along its course. The grapes are driven by truck to the very top, de-stemmed, crushed and processed down to the main facility where they are eventually bottled and labeled. A picnic table is available overlooking the valley and neighboring mountain ranges.
Turn right on Limekiln Road. This 1,400 acre ranch is the Enz Ranch, and home to 40 acres of vineyard originally planted in 1895.
The entrance to the winery is located just where the pavement ends. To the right of the entrance are moss covered remnants of several stone buildings, and a village pool. This is all that remains of a village that was home to some 200 men and women who mined limestone for the Cowell Lime Company from around 1890-1910. The vines, planted before steel wire was available, continue to be head- pruned instead of trellised, which gives them a bushy appearance. The vineyard is surrounded on all sides by several mountain peaks. A picnic table is available next to the winery, and is a perfect vantage point to view the meshing of vineyard to rocky mountain and birds of prey circling overhead.
The wineries, the winemakers and the land of the Cienega Valley have changed through the decades. But the greatest history is told by the wine produced from 100- year old grapevines. Listen carefully and the story of the Cienega Valley will reveal itself, one taste at a time.
To best experience the Cienega Valley Wine Trail, I suggest starting on the west end of Cienega Road from Union Road. After about a mile, turn right and follow the wine trail arrows. This two-lane road will bend and curve, revealing several hillside views and meadows. Just past the entrance to Hollister Hills State Vehicular Park is one of the best wildlife viewing areas. I have spotted a dozen or so wild turkeys and several deer, as well as foxes and wild boar. And if you happen to be on this road in October, you will be sharing it with male tarantula spiders looking for a mate.
It is almost seven miles to the first winery, and if you continue east on Cienega Road, you will eventually connect with Hwy. 25 just south of Paicines.
Here is a list of Cienega Road wineries which are open all year:
DeRose Winery
9970 Cienega Road
636-9143
www.derosewine.com
Tasting room hours: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.
Classic car museum hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on the first Saturday of each month
Pietra Santa Winery
10034 Cienega Road
636-1991
www.pietrasantawinery.com
Tasting room hours: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.
Calera Winery
11300 Cienega Road
637-9170
www.calerawine.com
Tasting room hours: 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily.
Flint Wine Cellars
13160 Cienega Road
636-8986
Tasting by appointment only
Enz Winery
1781 Limekiln Road
637-6443
Tasting room hours: 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.
Open Saturday and Sunday
Summerayne Vineyard
Limekiln Road
902-5638
Tasting at Enz Winery
For information on wine trail events, visit www.sbcwinegrowers.org
Tips for enjoying the wineries
– Designate a driver or hire a student to drive.
– Bring plenty of bottled water.
– Bring a picnic lunch.
– Don’t chew gum or wear perfumed products that will detract from the “nose” or aroma of the wine.
– Wear comfortable shoes and a sweater.
– Keep your group small, six or less is ideal.
– Leave children and pets at home.
– A winery is not a bar. It is an opportunity to taste new varietals and sample before you purchase.
– When the tasting room host is pouring for several tasters, step back and give others space. Take your time, and don’t be rushed.
– Don’t be afraid to ask questions about the wine and wine making process. There are no silly questions. Most people are not wine experts, even if they think they are.
– Buy what you like.
