Peaches and figs spell summertime
The tomatoes
– five, count ’em, five varieties – are ping pong ball sized and
weeks away from harvest, but it’s official: summer is here.
Peaches and figs spell summertime
The tomatoes – five, count ’em, five varieties – are ping pong ball sized and weeks away from harvest, but it’s official: summer is here.
Ignore the solstice-driven declaration of summer that arrived a few days ago. It’s summer because home-grown peaches and figs are here.
Peaches are hardly controversial. Just about everyone loves them, and just about everybody has a favorite recipe for pie or cobbler. They’re great over ice cream, out of hand or grilled.
Our peaches come from a genetic dwarf tree. Standing not much more than six feet tall, it bears a heavy crop of full-size peaches. They’re so good that one year, we lost our entire crop to Buddy the dog, who climbed into the tree to beat us to the fruit. He was also fond of our tomatoes and walnuts.
But figs? Figs are the poor relations of summer fruit, the Rodney Dangerfields of the orchard that never get any respect from many consumers.
Perhaps it’s because figs are so perishable that they’re seldom available in grocery stores. Most people who don’t have a tree in the garden grow up not eating them.
Perhaps it’s their texture when ripe, soft and unctuous with an abundance of crunchy seeds.
But to the initiates, figs are a glory. The crop comes twice a season; a smaller one in early summer and the larger just as summer segues into fall.
The mission variety in our front yard bears large fruit that’s nearly black on the outside and wine-red inside. To eat one, still dripping its milky sap (figs are in the same genus as rubber trees) captures the warmth of a summer day.
People who turn up their noses at fresh figs happily grab fistfuls of Fig Newtons and fig jam is not particularly controversial.
For those who think they do not care for figs, try tempering their sweetness with a dollop of plain yogurt.
Grilled or broiled, figs are a great foil for poultry or other meats and are perfect with a cheese tray. They also make a welcome and colorful addition to a salad of hearty greens, perhaps with some toasted walnuts and crumbled blue cheese.
Those who think they don’t like figs might try the following recipe, and the one accompanying it may give readers something new to do when the peaches threaten to overwhelm the pantry.
Grilled Figs
12 figs
Sugar
3 oz. fresh goat cheese
Fresh thyme
Halve the figs lengthwise and sprinkle with sugar. The sugar isn’t to sweeten the figs, but to form a caramelized glaze that lends a note of bitterness. Slide them cut side up under a broiler or onto a hot grilling rack and watch them carefully as they soften and the sugar bubbles. Remove from heat, add a short teaspoon of cheese to each and sprinkle with thyme leaves. Serves six.
Peach Salsa
2 peaches
1 serrano or jalapeno chile
½ medium red onion
Cilantro to taste
Juice of ½ to 1 lime
Chop peaches, chile (remove seeds if a milder salsa is desired), onion and cilantro, combine and add lime juice to taste.
The salsa is best made just before serving, when the flavors are bright and the contrasting textures are sharpest. It’s a great accompaniment for grilled chicken or seafood.