Getting Out: Nothing feels freer than hitting the open road with
no agenda but a compass bearing. That prospect lured my sister up
from the southland, and together we were on our way. Sleeping bags,
cooler, camp chair and a few other necessities stowed in the back,
we two gray-hairs lit out like Thelma and Louie. It was a long
winter, and the Sierra has been locked up under a still lingering
blanket of snow. With the lowlands now dry and brittle, the itch to
chase spring up to the high country had to be scratched. I had a
couple ideas of places to visit, but our only plan was to cross the
Sierra and then follow our collective whim.
Nothing feels freer than hitting the open road with no agenda but a compass bearing. That prospect lured my sister up from the southland, and together we were on our way. Sleeping bags, cooler, camp chair and a few other necessities stowed in the back, we two gray-hairs lit out like Thelma and Louie.
It was a long winter, and the Sierra has been locked up under a still lingering blanket of snow. With the lowlands now dry and brittle, the itch to chase spring up to the high country had to be scratched. I had a couple ideas of places to visit, but our only plan was to cross the Sierra and then follow our collective whim.
We headed for Sonora Pass because, the last time I checked, Tioga Pass was still closed. I was surprised to see a sign in the Central Valley setting me straight. Tioga was open, so we rerouted our path to the east side of the Sierra through Yosemite.
Along the road from Crane Flat to Tuolumne Meadows are several turnouts with great attractions unknown to most travelers. Stop at the parking lot marked with the Lukens Lake sign. It is a 20-minute walk to a meadow by the lake that is carpeted in early summer with countless shooting stars. Further on, stop with everyone else at Olmstead Point. But once you have looked down Tenaya Canyon toward Clouds Rest and Half Dome, leave the crowd behind, cross the street, and climb to the top of the little granite knob above the road. There are some sierra junipers and Jeffrey pines with personality up there as well as great views toward Tenaya Lake and a distant Mount Conness.
Past Tuolumne Meadows, over Tioga Pass, we dropped down to Lee Vining and the mandatory stop at the Whoa Nellie Deli, a highly unlikely yet superb culinary experience at, of all places, a Mobil gas station (Tip: Try the “world famous” fish tacos).
The town of Bridgeport is 22 miles north of Lee Vining. In 1863, it became the Mono County seat when it was discovered that the old county seat, Aurora, was just across the border in Nevada. This roaring metropolis of 850 people sits in a huge valley, 10 miles long by eight miles wide. Sawtooth Ridge, one of the most beautiful portions of the Sierra crest, is a jaw dropping backdrop to this vast high mountain (6,500 feet) plain. I had seen pictures of this valley carpeted in blue irises. Was this the right time? I wanted to find out.
Some mountain settings warrant a, “Gosh, that’s pretty,” as you pass by. But this view stopped me dead in my tracks. “Oh, my God,” then a long silence, then another, “Oh, my God.” Here and there across this sweeping flat valley were fields of fresh blue irises, their flashy sepals spotted with yellow in dazzling concentrations.
Determined to return in the morning light, we traversed the valley, turned off Twin Lakes Road at Doc & Al’s Resort and rolled out our bags along Buckeye Creek just across from the Buckeye Hot Springs. It was a great evening comprised of camp chairs, Manhattans, snacks, Jeffrey pines and good conversation. Beats the Hyatt Regency every time.
The soft light next morning only amplified the magnificent setting in Bridgeport Valley. There wasn’t much chatter, just looking and looking.
Throw the sleeping bags in the trunk and light out. Thelma and Louie give it a big thumbs up.
Bridgeport brags one of the best Independence Day celebrations in the nation. The bunting was out and preparations were under way. Throw the sleeping bags in the trunk and light out. Thelma and Louie give it a big thumbs up.
