Espalier fruit trees are a work of art
Garden art is a highly personal thing. I may think a Tin Man
scarecrow made from Campbell soup cans is garden art, while you
consider a Rodin statue as the only acceptable form of garden
art.
Still, an apple tree trained espalier growth against a wall
rates right up there as one of the most striking forms of garden
art. This is green art and it’s not for the lazy gardener.
Espalier fruit trees are a work of art
Garden art is a highly personal thing. I may think a Tin Man scarecrow made from Campbell soup cans is garden art, while you consider a Rodin statue as the only acceptable form of garden art.
Still, an apple tree trained espalier growth against a wall rates right up there as one of the most striking forms of garden art. This is green art and it’s not for the lazy gardener.
Fruit trees are traditionally planted from bare-root stock during the dormant season January through mid-February. Bare-root stock looks nearly dead. But with the first warmth around mid-February these trees begin to bud out with new growth. Then, with pruning shears in hand, the tree owner starts the task of training and shaping.
Fruit trees can be shaped in many ways. Traditionally, fruit trees are pruned to an open-vase structure with inside branches removed so the tree can receive sunlight and air circulation in the heart of the tree. Beyond that, some fruit trees set fruit on second- or third-year wood. You need to know where – and how – to get a decent fruit set.
As complicated as this may sound, it’s not rocket science. Yet some growers take the whole pruning thing one step further and indulge in espalier treatment.
Now it does get complicated.
Espalier is two-dimensional garden art achieved with pruning shears and anchor wires. Its impact comes from the formal symmetry with pairs of branches exactly opposite of each other and of equal length. This espalier form is ideal for apples and pears but does not suit stone fruit.
I’ve seen beautifully craft espalier trees at Filoli Estate in Woodside and Bonfante Gardens in Gilroy, created by staff who have the time and patience to do so. Backyard gardeners with the same time and patience can do it as well. Again, it’s not for the lazy gardener.
To create a workable espalier, first pick your spot. Espalier fruit trees need a strong high fence or a sunny wall against which to grow. Horizontal wires attached to posts are the backdrop for the espalier shape.
The basic cuts are these: Each winter the central leader is cut back just above where the next tier of horizontal branches is wanted. This cut directs the growth energy into laterals that will break from buds just below the cut. As the lateral branches develop, they are tied to the wire. Summer pruning removes unwanted lateral growth and side shoots. Eventually as the tree matures, it’s necessary to remove unwanted spurs in winter.
Espalier pruning is best illustrated by how-to illustrations. And the best source is the American Horticultural Society “Pruning and Training” by Christopher Brickell. You can find this excellent manual at most bookstores and some garden shops.
You don’t have to be an expert to create an espalier fruit tree, although you do have to be determined and faithful to your pruning shears. But when all is said and done, you will have a beautiful piece of art in your own garden.
A Reader Wants to Know: Have you ever heard of composting in a plastic bag? I tried it but it ended up rotting and smelling bad, so I threw it away. Now I want to try it again and would welcome some advice. – Jim
Joan Says: My first (and second) attempt at this also ended up rotting and smelling bad, so I understand what you are talking about. Start with a plastic bag: a one-gallon self-seal freezer bag works for small amounts, a plastic trash bag with twist-tie for larger amounts. Put your vegetable peelings, apple cores, egg shells, coffee grounds, tea leaves and so forth into the bag. Add a scoop of garden soil for its microorganisms, toss in a spoonful of alfalfa pellets (available as rabbit food). Pour in an ounce or so of water and seal the bag.
Squeeze and toss the bag daily to mix up the contents. Now here is the secret: Every other day leave the bag open for a day to let air in. Without that air you end up with a soggy, rotten mess. It takes four to six weeks for your compost bag to be ready for use.
I got this recipe from “Rodale Book of Composting” and I’m ready to try it again.
