Yep, it’s small but it was the home of Marilyn and is the center
of the artichoke universe
Along this often cool and foggy portion of the coast, where
artichoke and strawberry fields seem to stretch on endlessly, a
string of local produce spots offer bargain edibles at peak
freshness. Just off Highway 1, little Castroville and environs is a
spot for a quick visit on its own, or a fun stop when returning
from the Moss Landing, Monterey or Santa Cruz areas.
Yep, it’s small but it was the home of Marilyn and is the center of the artichoke universe
Along this often cool and foggy portion of the coast, where artichoke and strawberry fields seem to stretch on endlessly, a string of local produce spots offer bargain edibles at peak freshness. Just off Highway 1, little Castroville and environs is a spot for a quick visit on its own, or a fun stop when returning from the Moss Landing, Monterey or Santa Cruz areas.
Castroville’s downtown is made up of a few clustered blocks of largely older buildings. But the larger surrounding area, and its famous crop, has given Castroville the distinction of calling itself the “Artichoke Capital of the World.” The town itself dates to 1864, making it Monterey County’s second oldest community. Castroville was named for its founder, Juan Bautista Castro. He was the son of Jose Simeon Castro, a Spanish colonial-era Mexican soldier and early Monterey alcalde with important ties: his wife was the sister of Governor Pico.
Perhaps that is one of the reasons Jose Simeon was granted several sizable tracts. In time, the parcels were combined into the Rancho Bolsa Nueva y Moro Cojo, which stretched in one wide swath from the estuary near Monterey Bay all the way to the hills around Crazy Horse Canyon. Today, the community of Prunedale, the Moss Landing power plant site, and the Moro Cojo slough all occupy land once within the boundaries of the Castro family’s grant. Castroville itself was founded in what would have been the southwest corner of the grant. By 1868, the town’s rapid growth had already brought economic prosperity with a flour mill, four hotels and 20 other businesses.
Although the town prospered for a time, principally with the agriculture-based economy that still fuels the city coffers, a change came with the arrival of the railroad. Growth and progress were heavily promoted and expected to flow through Castroville en route to Watsonville on the new line. Instead, the main line was extended from Gilroy south to Salinas, which was by then the Monterey County seat. That left Castroville behind as the small farm town it remains today. For weekend daytrippers, it’s a good thing. The place comes alive with shoppers looking for fresh veggies and the ubiquitous artichoke.
Several historic structures remain from Castroville’s early days, most located on Merritt St., which is also the town’s main street. Founder Juan Castro’s home is located on Merritt and Crane Streets. The historic Native Sons of the Golden West and Masonic Lodge buildings sit facing each other, on opposite corners, at Merritt and Preston Streets. The Juan Bautista Henry Cooper house is a block farther, at Speegle and Merritt. La Scuola, a popular restaurant also located on the main drag, was once a public school building.
As for the town’s founder, Juan Castro served in several public offices, including Monterey County Treasurer, and county Supervisor, but he later moved to San Francisco.
Castroville and its most popular product, the artichoke, seem to be permanently married to each other. The delectable edible thistle, has been grown in the area since the early 1920s, brought in from Half Moon Bay. Various sources credit the Pieri, the Del Chiro and the Maracci families as being the first local growers. Others claim Andrew Molera first thought of trying the crop along the fog-drenched coastline, where cool ocean mist provides a perfect growing climate for the thistle.
The artichoke now makes up one of the largest cash crops in Monterey County. Today, about 75 percent of artichokes grown in the nation come from this small farming area, thus it’s with no small pride the town claims its title as the artichoke capital.
An Artichoke Festival and parade is held each May, with an Artichoke Queen contest, musical entertainment, and numerous food booths selling artichokes prepared in as many ways as Gilroyans fix garlic. Castroville’s most famous Artichoke Queen was Marilyn Monroe, or Norma Baker as she was known back then, who won the title in 1947 at the town’s first festival. In 2006, the festival named a “King” when American Idol contestant wannabe William Hung performed at the event.
Artichokes, strawberries in season, and other delectable local products are available in the Castroville area at a number of produce stands and shops that line Highway 1, or are in Castroville itself. Here’s an easy itinerary:
From Highway 1 headed toward Marina, exit at Nashua-Molera Road. Take Nashua Road across the highway overpass to:
– Pezzini Farms, 460 Nashua Road. At this large open store, learn how to properly steam artichokes, plus purchase all the accouterments that go with them, including serving plates and special dipping sauces. Salad dressings, spicy salsas, fancy pastas, fruits, vegetables, gift packs, mail order. Phone 831-757-7434; Hours: 8 a.m.-6:30 a.m. weekdays, 8 a.m.-7 p.m. weekends.
– From Pezzini Farms, follow Nashua Road back to the highway overpass, which changes names to Molera Road on the other side. Drive on Molera Road, which passes through artichoke fields, until it comes out at Highway 1. Turn right to immediately access Thistle Hut.
– Thistle Hut, 2047 Highway 1 at Molera Road north of Castroville. Dried and fresh fruits, seasonal vegetables, artichokes by the bag or loose, all sizes. Pumpkin patch in fall. Phone (831) 633-4888. Hours: Daily 8:30 a.m.-6:30 a.m.
– Then, continue west on Highway 1 to Elkhorn Farm & Mercantile, 8850 Highway 1 north between Castroville and Moss Landing. Located in a rustic whitewashed barn, this enterprise offers organic produce, organic eggs, gourmet products, artichokes by the bag or loose, gift items, wines, herbs, baked goods. Pumpkin patch in fall. Large paved parking lot just off the highway. Phone: 831-633-4768. Hours: Daily, 9 till dusk. Visit on-line at: www.bestroadsidestop.com.
– The Whole Enchilada Marketplace, 7990 Highway 1. This spanking new cluster of shops with plenty of parking occupies a stretch of land near several well-known restaurants close to the Moss Landing village and harbor turnoff. The clean, well-lit market carries fresh produce, sea food, snacks and beverages. The new stall shops are just starting to fill, starting with a florist and soon with artisans’ crafts. Phone: 831-632-BOAT. Hours: Daily, 7 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
– Domenic’s 62 Highway 1, north of Moss Landing. Fancy pastas, wines, herb vinegars, produce, artichokes by the bag or loose, honeys, dried fruit and nuts, gift items. Fall pumpkin patch. Small souvenir shop next door. Phone: 831-722-0181. Hours: Daily 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m. spring/fall; 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. fall/winter. Visit on-line at: www.Pelicannetwork.net (click on Castroville page.)
– En route home, take the Castroville exit from Highway 1 to visit the Giant Artichoke, 11261 Merritt St., at corner of Salinas Street in downtown Castroville. A mainstay for decades, the restaurant features artichoke specialties such as French-fried artichokes and artichoke soup. Gourmet shop with artichoke-related gift items, dressings and sauces, marinated hors d’oeuvres, fruits and vegetables in season, plus the huge globe artichokes for which the place is named. Wine, deli and cheese shop. Phone 831-633-3501. Hours: 8 a.m.-7 p.m. daily.
A note of caution: the stretch of road along Highway 1 between Moss Landing and Castroville is a busy spot for lines of traffic during the summer and on weekends. Use special caution, and some patience, when entering or exiting the roadway.
For an extended day away, in addition to produce shopping, this area offers other attractions, such as side trips to the nearby Elkhorn Slough, or the specialty and antique shops at Moss Landing. For more area information, contact: Castroville Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 744, Castroville, CA 95-12-6545, 831-633-6545. For information on the Artichoke Festival, visit on-line at: www.artichoke-festival.org. For more information on things to see and do in Moss Landing, contact Moss Landing Chamber of Commerce, 8071 Moss Landing Rd., Moss Landing, CA 95039. Phone: 831-633-45-1, or visit on-line at; mosslandingchamber.com.
