From your basic plum and cherry tomatoes, to heirloom varieties
such as brandywine and green zebra tomatoes, abundant local
tomatoes have to be one of the best treats summer has to offer. And
since the height of the tomato season arrives in the latter half of
the sun-drenched summer months, tomato-lovers need to exhibit a bit
of patience as their favorite fruits, botanically speaking, reach
maturity.
But the waiting is over.
From your basic plum and cherry tomatoes, to heirloom varieties such as brandywine and green zebra tomatoes, abundant local tomatoes have to be one of the best treats summer has to offer. And since the height of the tomato season arrives in the latter half of the sun-drenched summer months, tomato-lovers need to exhibit a bit of patience as their favorite fruits, botanically speaking, reach maturity.
But the waiting is over.
Beyond the limits of the basic BLT lies an endless array of ways to include tomatoes in summer menus. And, with the small amount of work involved cooking and freezing homemade tomato sauce, it is quite possible to enjoy the essence of the summer tomato on dark winter nights, months after the last vine has shed her final piece of handiwork.
So whether the tomatoes come from the backyard garden, a local farmer, or the produce bins at the grocery store, welcome as many of them as you can into the kitchen and get cooking while several weeks of local tomatoes still remain. Your taste buds will thank you and your summer memories will be complete.
Fresh Tomato Sauce
Adapted from Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
3 pounds ripe tomatoes, quartered
3 tablespoons chopped basil
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or butter
1. Place the tomatoes in a heavy pan with the basil. Cover and cook over medium-high heat. The tomatoes should yield their juices right away, but keep an eye on the pot to make sure the pan isn’t dry. You don’t want the tomatoes to scorch. When the tomatoes have broken down after about 10 minutes, pass them through a food mill. If you want the final sauce to be thicker, return it to the pot and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until it’s as thick as you want it. Season with salt and pepper to taste and stir in the oil.
Chef’s Note: (If you don’t have a food mill, you can first blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for a minute or so then easily remove the peels and seeds if you like.)
Making sauce to freeze for the winter isn’t a big production–or a time consuming one. When tomatoes are in season, make the Fresh Tomato Sauce using 4 to 5 pounds tomatoes or whatever is convenient. When it’s cool, ladle it into plastic freezer bags in 1- or 2- cup portions and lay the bags on the freezer floor until they harden. This makes slim packages that are easy to store upright, taking little space. When you warm the sauce, you can season it with crushed garlic or an herb that goes with the dish you’re making.
Fresh Tomato Gazpacho
Courtesy of Mariquita Farm
6 large ripe tomatoes (approx. 3 lbs)
1 1/2 cup tomato juice
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon oregano
6 green onions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup finely chopped celery
1/4 cup finely chopped, seeded cucumber
1-2 jalapeno chilies, seeded and minced
Accompaniments: seeded, chopped red or green bell pepper, diced avocado, fresh coriander leaves, garlic croutons, thinly sliced radishes, thinly slivered cabbage, lime wedges, Mexican cream.
1. Seed and finely chop 1 tomato; reserve. Coarsely chop remaining tomatoes. Combine these w/ the tomato juice and garlic in a blender (you may need to do this in two batches)-process until smooth. Press through a sieve into large bowl; discard seeds.
2. Whisk lime juice, oil, vinegar, salt and oregano into tomato mixture. Stir in reserved chopped tomato, green onions, celery, cucumber and chilies. Refrigerate, covered, at least 4 or up to 24 hours to blend flavors. At serving time: Stir soup well and ladle into chilled bowls. Pass accompaniments to be added according to individual taste.
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Blue Cheese
Bon Appetit, August 2003
8 1/2-inch-thick slices crusty bread
4 large garlic cloves, halved
3 tablespoons plus 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup currant or grape tomatoes or halved cherry or pear tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped green onions
10 medium heirloom tomatoes of assorted colors, cored, thinly sliced
1 small red onion, sliced paper-thin
3 celery stalks, sliced thin on diagonal
1 1/2 cups coarsely crumbled blue cheese
1. Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Rub bread with cut garlic halves; brush bread with 3 tablespoons oil. Combine remaining 1/3 cup oil, currant tomatoes, and green onions in medium bowl; toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Overlap tomato slices in concentric circles on platter, alternating colors. Scatter onion and celery slices over tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spoon tomato and green onion mixture over. Sprinkle with crumbled cheese.
3.Grill bread until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Cut each slice diagonally in half; serve with salad.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Oven-dried Tomato Tart with Goat Cheese and Black Olives
Bon Appetit, August 2005
Oven-drying the tomatoes before baking the tart concentrates their sweetness and prevents juices from softening the filling.
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 medium tomatoes or large roma tomatoes, cored, halved crosswise, seeded
2 small garlic cloves, thinly slivered
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme, divided
1 sheet frozen puff pastry (half of 17.3-ounce package), thawed
1 cup coarsely grated whole-milk mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup soft fresh goat cheese (about 4 ounces)
2 large eggs
1/4 cup whipping cream
1/3 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Line rimmed baking sheet with foil; brush foil with 1 tablespoon oil. Place tomato halves, cut side up, on baking sheet. Sprinkle garlic and 1 tablespoon thyme over tomatoes; drizzle remaining 1/4 cup oil over. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake until tomatoes begin to shrink and are slightly dried but still soft, about 2 hours. Cool tomatoes on sheet. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Store in single layer in covered container in refrigerator.)
2. Roll out pastry on lightly floured surface to 13-inch square. Transfer pastry to 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom, pressing pastry firmly onto bottom and sides of pan. Trim overhang to 3/4 inch. Fold overhang in and press, pushing crust 1/4 inch above pan. Pierce crust all over with fork; chill 30 minutes.
3. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 375°F. Line pastry with foil; fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until crust is set, about 20 minutes. Remove foil and beans; bake until crust edges are golden, piercing with fork if crust bubbles, about 12 minutes longer. Cool crust 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F.
4. Meanwhile, using fork, mash mozzarella cheese, goat cheese, and remaining 1 tablespoon thyme together in medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add eggs and cream and stir until mixture is well blended. Spread cheese filling evenly in crust. Arrange tomato halves in filling, cut side up. Place olives between tomatoes. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese evenly over top. Bake until filling is puffed and set, about 35 minutes. Cool 5 minutes. Push up pan bottom, releasing sides. Serve tart warm.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Grilled Marinated Lamb Chops with Balsamic Cherry Tomatoes
Gourmet, July 2002
If you are using cherry tomatoes on the vine and get 1 large cluster, simply cut the vines into 4 clusters before grilling and serving with the lamb.
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
8 rib lamb chops (1 1/2 lb total), bones frenched and all fat trimmed
1 1/2 lb cherry tomatoes (preferably on the vine)
1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1. Stir together honey, vinegar, garlic, salt, and pepper and transfer to a sealable plastic bag. Add lamb, then seal bag, pressing out excess air and turning to distribute marinade. Marinate lamb, chilled, turning occasionally, 1 hour. Bring lamb to room temperature. Prepare grill for cooking. If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill and on lid.
2. Remove lamb from marinade, reserving marinade. When fire is medium-hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above rack for 3 to 4 seconds), grill lamb on lightly oiled grill rack, turning once, about 4 minutes total for medium-rare. Transfer to a platter and keep warm, covered.
3. Cook tomatoes (still on vine, if using) in disposable roasting pan, covered with grill lid, carefully turning, until softened and just beginning to split, about 8 minutes. Drizzle balsamic vinegar over tomatoes, turning to coat, then cook, uncovered, until vinegar is reduced by about half, about 2 minutes. Remove from grill.
4. Bring reserved marinade with any lamb juices accumulated on platter to a boil in a small heavy saucepan, covered. Drizzle lamb with marinade and serve with tomatoes.
Cooks’ note:
– Lamb and tomatoes can also be grilled in batches in a lightly oiled well-seasoned ridged grill pan over moderately high heat (tomatoes will take less time to soften, about 3 minutes).
Makes 4 servings.
Food styling by Leila Monajati
