Fresh produce has a partner: yogurt
We got a late start on our own tomatoes because the garden’s
been in upheaval. The future’s promising, but right now we’re at
the
”
you’ve got to break some eggs to make an omelet
”
stage.
Fresh produce has a partner: yogurt
We got a late start on our own tomatoes because the garden’s been in upheaval. The future’s promising, but right now we’re at the “you’ve got to break some eggs to make an omelet” stage.
While our own fruit are a ways off, the arrival of the Hollister Farmers Market comes in time to enjoy America’s most popular home-grown crop at its peak. The Swank Farms booth, in particular, is showcasing a variety of tomatoes that have yet to see a supermarket produce bin. The heirloom varieties come in a rainbow of colors and a host of improbable shapes.
The flavors range from candy-sweet to just a little puckery and from complex to straight-ahead tomato.
For many people, picked-ripe tomatoes capture the essence of summer. They tend to arrive just as we pluck the last Meyer lemons from our tree.
When the days turn warmer, my hunger for a year-round favorite grows. There’s always a tub of plain yogurt in the refrigerator, and I frequently enjoy a glass of buttermilk. But in hot weather, milk that’s been turned tart with acidophilus culture is particularly appealing.
I know it’s not universally appealing, but plain yogurt is a great partner for both tomatoes and lemons. Both of these recipes – one a salad and the other a refreshing drink – showcase their star ingredients in ways that may make believers out of the most committed yogurt loather.
Tomato raita
This is an Indian recipe, but it’s good anytime the weather calls for a dab of cooling salad. The black mustard seeds can be found at many ethnic groceries and well-stocked spice shops. They’re a bit smaller than the yellow mustard seeds. They’re also what much of our wild mustard comes from. If you can’t find them, just use yellow mustard.
1 large or 2 medium tomatoes, diced
2 c. plain yogurt
1 tbsp. cooking oil
1 small green chile, seeded and chopped
1 tsp. black mustard seed
Salt to taste
1 tbsp. chopped cilantro (optional)
Beat the yogurt in a bowl until smooth. Gently stir in diced tomatoes and juice. Heat the oil in a pan, add mustard seeds and chile and cover (the seeds will pop and spatter). When the seeds nearly stop popping and turn grey, pour the mixture into the yogurt and fold in. Add salt to taste and serve immediately. A liberal sprinkling of chopped cilantro adds some color and another layer of flavor, if desired.
Lemon lassi
2 lemons, preferably Meyer
Sugar to taste
1 ½ c. plain yogurt
3 medium ice cubes
Grate the zest from the lemons and place in a blender with the yogurt. Juice the lemons and add to the blender, along with sugar to taste. Add the ice cubes and whirl until the ice is chipped and the drink is frothy. Pour into glasses and serve. Makes two medium or one large serving.
In India, lassis come salty or sweet, flavored with ingredients as exotic as rose flower water or mango. Turning yogurt and produce into a refreshing drink should invite experimentation. The lemon lassi can be changed by swapping one lemon out for a lime, for example. To dress it up, a sprig of mint can be added, and the rims of the serving glasses can be moistened with a squeezed lemon, then dipped in sugar, kind of like a kids’ margarita.
