If it’s winter, it must be time for potatoes, grapefruit and
salmon
We received a cookbook for Christmas organized like no other
I’ve ever encountered.
”
Keep It Seasonal,
”
by Annie Wayte is organized into four sections, each named for a
season. Within each section are chapters devoted to sandwiches,
soups and salads, each featuring ingredients that are at their best
during that season.
If it’s winter, it must be time for potatoes, grapefruit and salmon
We received a cookbook for Christmas organized like no other I’ve ever encountered.
“Keep It Seasonal,” by Annie Wayte is organized into four sections, each named for a season. Within each section are chapters devoted to sandwiches, soups and salads, each featuring ingredients that are at their best during that season.
It might be easy to dismiss the book as gimmicky, but the concept works.
One night last week, I came home late from a long day to find a pot of sausage, potato and kale soup that was satisfying in a way that only seasonal foods can be. The dark, robust winter greens were a perfect foil for the rich Italian sausage, and – maybe it’s the Irish in me – potatoes are always deeply comforting.
The book itself would do any coffee table proud. It features sharp layouts, mouthwatering photography and solid writing. Wayte is a chef who’s run kitchens in London and New York City, but her recipes are not the fussy ones many chef-authored books feature. They’re straightforward and well suited to busy home cooks.
I find it pretty easy to dream things up during summer, but this time of year, I keep going to the same well. Wayte begins the “Winter” section with a list of produce that’s available now, from Brussels sprouts to winter squash, the list is arranged alphabetically.
In addition to the soup we enjoyed, I’ll share one of her sandwich and salad recipes featuring winter ingredients.
Sausage, potato and kale soup
1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
½ lb. well-seasoned sausages of your choice
1 large white onion, cut into ½-inch dice
1 clove garlic, minced
¾ lb. baking potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 tbsp. chopped sage, rosemary or thyme
4 c. chicken or vegetable stock
1 large handful of kale or other dark, robust greens, trimmed and sliced into thin strips
Salt and pepper to taste
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the sausages and cook until browned. Remove the sausages from the pan and set aside. Drain all but one tablespoon of fat from the pan. Return to the heat and add the onions, stirring until they are translucent. Add the garlic and saute for another minute. Add the potatoes and herbs, stirring well. Add the stock, season to taste with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
Slice the sausages into bite-sized pieces and add them to the soup. Cook until the potatoes are tender and beginning to collapse, about 10 minutes. Add the kale and simmer for 5-8 minutes, until cooked through. Taste for seasoning and serve.
Grapefruit, blue cheese and celery salad
2 grapefruits
1 large egg yolk
2 tsp. white wine vinegar
½ c. extra virgin olive oil
½ c. vegetable oil
5 oz. blue cheese
Salt and pepper
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
3 stalks celery, sliced diagonally
4 handfuls peppery salad greens, such as dandelion, endive and watercress
1 tbsp. snipped fresh chives
Handful of bite-sized croutons
Remove peel and pith from the grapefruits and holding them over a bowl to catch the juice, cut the segments away from the membranes. Squeeze the last of the juice from the leftover membranes and set the bowl of juice and grapefruit aside.
Place the egg yolk, 3 tbsp. of the reserved grapefruit juice and the vinegar in a food processor and blend for 30 to 40 seconds. Slowly pour the oils into the processor while it is running. If the dressing is too thick, add more grapefruit juice. The dressing will resemble mayonnaise. Add six or seven grapefruit segments, 1 ounce of blue cheese and process until combined. Add enough grapefruit juice, about 1-2 tbsp., to achieve a pourable consistency, and refrigerate.
Soak the red onions in the remaining grapefruit juice for about 15 minutes, which will slightly pickle them. When ready to serve, toss the celery and greens in a bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste and distribute among four plates. Drain the onions and arrange them over the greens. Coarsely crumble the remaining blue cheese and scatter it over the salad. Tuck grapefruit segments into the salads and drizzle the dressing over all. Scatter croutons over and serve.
Smoked salmon club sandwich
2 tbsp. crème fraiche or sour cream
1 tbsp. finely snipped fresh chives
½ tsp. grated lemon zest
Salt and pepper
6 slices bread, such as potato-dill, whole grain or pumpernickel
¼ cucumber, peeled, halved, seeded and thinly sliced
4 ounces smoked salmon, thinly sliced
Handful watercress or upland cress, trimmed.
Combine the crème fraiche, chives, lemon zest salt and pepper in a bowl. Toast the bread. Place a small spoonful of the dressing on a slice of toast, layer ¼ of the cucumbers, salmon and watercress on top. Add a second slice of toast and repeat the layers, topping with a third slice. Repeat the process for the second sandwich. Cut in half diagonally and serve.
