Getting Out: Now that the heat of summer is kicking in, a walk
in a cool shaded forest is a wonderful treat. In contrast to the
Central Valley, we have the great gift of being one narrow mountain
range away from the coast’s cool summer temperatures.
Now that the heat of summer is kicking in, a walk in a cool shaded forest is a wonderful treat. In contrast to the Central Valley, we have the great gift of being one narrow mountain range away from the coast’s cool summer temperatures.
I had heard nice things about Butano State Park, so last week I decided to see for myself. A friend and I met up in Santa Cruz and headed north on U.S. Highway 1. About 30 miles north of Santa Cruz, just above Año Nuevo State Reserve, is a small sign marking the turn off to the park. The five-mile ride along Gazos Creek Road traces Gazos Creek through a beautiful valley that alone made the trip worthwhile. It was very tempting to pass the park and explore the road’s full extent.
We drove past the entry kiosk to Ben Ries Campground. The road follows Little Butano Creek through a dark redwood forest. Thimbleberries, ferns – all sorts of dense greenery – line the road and fill the forest floor. If you are a car camper seeking the cool shade of a redwood forest, this campground is a winner. All 39 sites appeared full, so make reservations by calling (800) 444-7275.
We returned to the entry kiosk where our loop would begin and end on opposite sides of the street. Visitor help here was totally unavailable. The box for visitor maps was empty, so I walked toward the “Open” sign at the visitor center only to find the door locked. I heard voices behind the adjacent office door, but it was locked, and a knock got no response. Strike three, I was out.
No matter; we had an idea, and it turned out to be a good one. Our walk began across the street on the Año Nuevo Trail, a direct and steep 1.3-mile climb to the ridge top. This will tax your lungs and legs, but the beauty of this open Douglas fir forest should be enjoyed at a slow pace. We climbed through the morning fog, which contributed to a feeling of enchantment.
The redwoods and Douglas firs along the coast receive moisture equivalent to 10 inches of rainfall during the summer months by snatching the fog and dropping its harvest to the forest floor. The damp earth and undergrowth and the tap of regular drips through the fog’s hush showed us this irrigation process was at work.
On top of the ridge, we hit the Olmo Fire Trail. Here was the park at its best, enveloping us in peaceful solitude. We rolled along the ridge top, still walking through the foggy forest. Occasional views opened up down each side. To our right, forested hills – showing evidence of past logging – extended as far as we could see. Big Basin State Park is not far in this direction, and a link between the two parks is planned on an easement through private lands.
As the forested fire road began to give way to open chaparral, we turned left onto the Indian Trail which dropped back down into the Little Butano Creek drainage.
Down, down into the redwoods.
The monotonous darkness typical of a redwood forest was punctuated with elegant openings and creek crossings. Carpets of redwood sorrel *- some still in bloom *- added to the charm.
We connected to the Canyon Trail, then Jackson Flats Trail *- dropping all the while – back to the car. Our loop was about eight miles and a great tour of the park. We had a wonderful walk, but Butano is a long drive to sights available closer to home. However, the park brags about its purple calypso orchid that blooms from February to April. I have to come back for that.
Ron Erskine is an outdoors columnist. His column appears every Sunday online at www.freelancenews.com. You can reach him at: ro********@ms*.com
