It may seem strange to read about growing vegetables this time
of year, but with the proper
”
pea caution,
”
it can be done successfully. And, following up on last week’s
column, the National Garden Bureau has declared 2004 the Year of
the Pea.
The National Garden Bureau is a nonprofit organization of seed
companies, headquartered outside of Chicago. Each year, the
organization publicizes a flower and vegetable. This year’s flower
is the dianthus, covered in last week’s column.
It may seem strange to read about growing vegetables this time of year, but with the proper “pea caution,” it can be done successfully. And, following up on last week’s column, the National Garden Bureau has declared 2004 the Year of the Pea.
The National Garden Bureau is a nonprofit organization of seed companies, headquartered outside of Chicago. Each year, the organization publicizes a flower and vegetable. This year’s flower is the dianthus, covered in last week’s column.
You can get an early start on your vegetable gardening by growing peas. We’re lucky because our mild winter climate allows us to start growing peas even now! In fact, one of the keys is to get that first spring crop in as early as possible. This means for gardeners in long-season areas like us, you can start to get your first crop now. However, another key is not to plant in wet or soggy soil. Make sure your soil is well-draining, with plenty of peat moss or organic compost to counter-act mud. Too wet will lead to the pea’s primary enemy: rot.
Peas can grow when soil temperatures are in the 40s during the day. When sown in temperatures below 40 degrees, germination may take as long as 36 days. However, at temperatures of 50 degrees, which is common locally, seeds will germinate in just nine days.
Another key is not to pre-soak peas. Presoaking in water is like hitting the seeds with a hammer. The outside expands faster than the inside, breaking the seed apart. It’s also best to sow pea seeds shallowly at no more than an inch deep, and plant thickly, too. In order to keep peas on your plate for as long as possible, sow several plantings throughout spring and into summer.
Ever since Sugar Snap hit the market way back in 1979, edible-podded snap peas have become standard fare. In fact, many home gardeners have forsaken the traditional shelling varieties in favor of the eat-straight-from-the-vine snap types.
Your other choice involves height. Many gardeners plant only dwarf types that grow to one to two feet. Semi-dwarf types are two to three feet, and tall varieties that need to be staked are five feet or more.
A personal favorite way to grow peas involves a mass planting in a small bed, maybe three by eight feet. The vines intertwine and help lend support to each other. To harvest, I sit on an overturned bucket in the middle of the bed and pull each plant toward me. I pick my way around!
Whatever or however you grow peas, you won’t reap the full flavor unless you harvest them at their best. Like corn, peas quickly convert their sugars to starch. It’s important to pick them just as they get fully round.
Peas also obey a golden rule seldom found in nature. They are one of the few plants (like beans) that give to the soil as much or more than they take out. Peas have long root systems that reach into the soil, helping to break up and loosen heavy clods. The roots also have nodules that contain excess nitrogen. As the roots decay, this nitrogen is released into the soil, benefiting the soil. When you’ve had enough peas and your plants appear finished, rototill everything – vines and all – back into the soil for nourishment.
So don’t hesitate. Celebrate 2004 as the Year of the Pea by planting them now.
