Getting Out: On their migration, raptors (hawks, kites, eagles,
falcons) avoid soaring over open water. As they pass through Marin
County, they stay away from the ocean to the west and the bay to
the east until land runs out at the Golden Gate. Here in the Marin
Headlands, raptors converge in big numbers each fall before
crossing the gate.
“Two juvie Sharpies.”
“One Coop.”
“I think I see three Broads.”
“Where?”
“Above the North Saddle.”
These are the sounds one is likely to hear this time of year on top of Hawk Hill overlooking the Golden Gate in Marin County. Volunteers of the Golden Gate Raptor Observatory (GGRO), peering in every direction through binoculars and spotting scopes, search the sky for migrating raptors that pass this location in great numbers on their fall migration. When a raptor is spotted, volunteers call out their sighting in shorthand lingo (above: juvenile Sharp-shinned Hawk, Cooper’s Hawk, Broad-winged Hawk), and it is noted by another volunteer toting a clipboard.
On their migration, raptors (hawks, kites, eagles, falcons) avoid soaring over open water. As they pass through Marin County, they stay away from the ocean to the west and the bay to the east until land runs out at the Golden Gate. Here in the Marin Headlands, raptors converge in big numbers each fall before crossing the gate.
The GGRO monitors the migration from Aug. 20 through Dec. 20, but the peak traffic is in September and October. Last week, I drove up to the Marin Headlands to see the birds and the incredible views.
As you cross the Golden Gate Bridge, look outside the gate on the Marin side at the highest pine-topped promontory. That’s Hawk Hill. Exit at Alexander Avenue just across the bridge, cross back under Highway 101, then bear right up the hill (Be careful. If you miss it you’re back on the bridge – a $6 mistake).
There are magnificent views all along this road, but the first viewpoint is a quarter of a mile up the road. Stop there and take the short walk past concrete structures with barred window openings and old gate-guarding gun emplacements to a jaw-dropping site overlooking the bridge and the San Francisco skyline. The sense of high exposure here is invigorating as you look down on the bridge deck and through the towers to the San Francisco skyline.
A hundred yards beyond is the path down to Kirby Cove. If you have time, walk down to this small beach. It is a lovely place. It holds special personal memories for me. As a Boy Scout, we used to camp here with special permission when the Marin Headlands was still in the hands of the military. We would explore endlessly, searching for (and finding) ammo clips and other military detritus that fascinates young boys. When the tide is right, in between waves scamper around the cliff at the east end of the beach to small caves on the other side. Camping is available by reservation at Kirby Cove (1-877-444-6777 or www.recreation.gov).
Another couple miles brings you up to Hawk Hill. Park and walk up past the pines and more military gun emplacements to the top. The 180-degree view you have been enjoying is now full circle. Rodeo Valley and Fort Cronkite are just below, the folds of the Marin Headlands are beyond, and Mt. Tamalpais is in the distance.
If you would like to learn to identify or just see a variety of raptors, sitting here is a gold mine. My visits have always been brief, but I have never failed to see something new and interesting. Between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. are the best times for viewing. On weekends at noon, volunteers give a free Hawk Talk.
If, on the other hand, the thought of watching birds makes your eyes cross and launches your nap reflex, bring lunch and a chair. You’ll see the entrance to the bay the way the raptors do. Visit www.ggro.org for more information.
