Eleven days are left of the carnival season and Mardi Gras is quickly approaching. Although much of the religious importance of Mardi Gras has given way to secular celebration, the spirit of the season is alive and well. This week, I share the personal importance of this holiday and a family recipe to celebrate with.
Although the details have yet to be thoroughly researched, a branch of my mom’s side of the family arrived in New Orleans from Italy prior to 1870. At least five generations have called the city home. Although born and raised in San Jose, my Grandma Virginia lived in New Orleans as a child and Mom lived there while in her early 20s. When we celebrate Mardi Gras, it is a way for us to remember our connection to New Orleans.
I give my mom the most credit in influencing my knowledge and connection to New Orleans. She taught me about the friendly people, beautiful cemeteries, beignet and coffee at Cafe du Monde in the morning and the tasty Muffaletta at Central Grocery. One of the foods my mom enjoyed the most – shrimp stew – was not discovered at one of the city’s famed restaurants, but in a friend’s kitchen. Many years later, it would become an established recipe in our home, especially at this time of year. Mom never gave me the recipe for her shrimp stew before she passed away, but I hoped to find it one day.
A few weeks ago, I mentioned the recipe to Mom’s sister, Auntie Jo Ann. A wonderful surprise arrived a few days later in the form of a handwritten copy of the recipe. Having that tattered and stained piece of paper made me very happy.
I present the recipe for New Orleans Shrimp Stew without many changes. The only exception is the method for cooking the shrimp. Originally, the shrimp cooks the entire simmering time, making the shrimp tough. Well-developed shrimp flavor is added to the stew by making a broth from the shells. The shrimp are added to the stew just prior to serving, allowing them to remain tender and juicy.
New Orleans Shrimp Stew
From Dede Mariani
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 pound of shrimp
1 cup water
16 ounces tomato sauce
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup bell pepper, chopped
1/2 cup green onion, chopped
4 small cloves of garlic, minced
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 dash cayenne pepper
2 whole bay leaves
1 lemon, sliced & pits removed
1/2 cup parsley, chopped
2 cups cooked rice
Step 1: Peel and devein the shrimp. Place the shrimp shells in a small pot and add the water. Cover and bring to a simmer for 20 minutes. Discard the shrimp shells and allow the shrimp broth to settle. Pour the shrimp broth into a bowl, leaving any “gritty” parts of the broth in the bottom of the pot. Stir in the tomato sauce.
Step 2: Make the roux by heating the oil and flour in a heavy bottom pot over medium heat and stir constantly until the flour becomes “blonde.” Add the bell pepper and sauté until it just begins to soften, about four minutes. Add the green onion and garlic; continue to sauté the mixture an additional minute. Remove the pot from the heat and quickly whisk the shrimp broth and tomato sauce mixture into the pot with the sautéed vegetables and roux. Return the pot to the heat and add the salt, thyme, cayenne pepper, bay leaves and sliced lemon, stirring as the mixture thickens. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 20 to 25 minutes; stir occasionally.
Step 3: Increase the temperature back to medium. If the mixture is thicker than you like, add a little water. Stir the shrimp into the mixture and cook for five minutes. Add the parsley and stir until well incorporated.
Step 4: Serve the stew with the rice.
