Scenic Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey Bay offer’s a unique
wintertime charm
Monterey’s wrap-around blue bay forms the centerpiece of this
exquisite, postcard-like scene. In winter, given a clear, windswept
day, brightly painted sailboats slip across the ultramarine water
like little toy boats.
Scenic Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey Bay offer’s a unique wintertime charm
Monterey’s wrap-around blue bay forms the centerpiece of this exquisite, postcard-like scene. In winter, given a clear, windswept day, brightly painted sailboats slip across the ultramarine water like little toy boats.
Closer in, an occasional kayak glides slowly past, evading the sea otters and harbor seals that often romp near the shoreline. Although the bay scene is normally bustling with throngs of tourists, right now there’s often a distinct lull. Apart from the occasional weekend holiday, Old Fisherman’s Wharf is a quaint spot to stroll. Along the historic pier, besides enjoying a day out in the brisk sea air, a cheap lunch is easy to come by, from one of several open stands that offer a big sourdough-bowl full of steaming clam chowder. This is also the time of year to head to the end of the wharf and take one of the popular bay and whale-watch cruises that sail out in search of water spouts from the gray whales migrating along the coast.
Given its busy cluster of shops, cafes and boat marinas, it’s hard to believe that, long before the wharf area was a tourist attraction, it was once an official port of entry. For all its importance, there was a long time when the port had no pier at all. This presented a problem for arriving ships, both under Spanish and then Mexican rule. That was because the ship’s crews were required to tender all the goods ashore and into the Custom House, where their value was declared and duties had to be paid.
Besides the crews, passengers also came ashore in small boats, but only so far. Without a landing pier, everyone had to clamber overboard and wade through the shallow waters to reach land. This was despite the fact that, even though both San Diego and Monterey were official ports of entry for ships, Monterey was Alta California’s capital. By 1834 the town’s prominence prompted Governor Figueroa to note that Monterey was “becoming the principal port of the daily increasing foreign commerce.” He thought, by then, ships ought to be able to sail up to a decent pier to discharge passengers and cargo.
The job fell to an American resident, Thomas O. Larkin, a respected Yankee businessman. Quarried stone for the wharf’s underpinnings was hauled in by hired Indians, civilian prisoners and captured military deserters. When it was completed, Monterey’s first wharf cost about $8,000. And since San Diego still didn’t have one, in 1845 Thomas Larkin’s little pier enjoyed the distinction of being declared the first wharf in California. The exact location was reported to be slightly east of today’s wharf, or just to the right as you face the present wharf entrance, over a big rock cluster which still stands at the foot of a group of souvenir shops.
An early account by William Redmond Ryan, in “Personal Adventures in Upper and Lower California in 1848-49,” described the pier as already becoming unsteady only three years after it was built.
“We landed at the foot of an abrupt rock, on the top of which stood the Custom-house, a long, whitewashed building, of ancient date, and about 20 feet in length: Our way to it lay along a pier of most unsafe appearance, and considerably so in reality, being constructed of a few logs thrown loosely across a series of half rotten posts sunk into the sand, and liable to be dislodged by the ebb and flow of the tide,” Ryan wrote.
In 1870, the Pacific Coast Steamship Company replaced the Larkin pier with a 400-foot long wharf. It contained a warehouse at the far end. Business picked up at the expanded wharf, including four weekly freight and passenger ship arrivals. By then it was an established American port of call and home base for early Portuguese whalers, Chinese squid fishermen, Italian sardine feluccas, and trade and commerce ships carrying agricultural produce, timber and dried fish. In 1908, crowds turned out to stand on the wharf and witness the United States’ Great White Fleet as it sailed into Monterey Bay, on an around-the-world cruise commissioned by President Theodore Roosevelt.
Over the years, several other wharves were built to serve various needs on Monterey Bay, including a 1,300-foot steel wharf opposite the railroad depot, and a small pier at the rocky point at the bottom of Presidio Hill. Today, a sturdy, no-nonsense Municipal Wharf stretches out to the right of Old Fisherman’s Wharf, while down a pedestrian path that winds to the left toward the Presidio, visitors can amble over to the Coast Guard pier and watch the sea lions loll and sunbathe along the stone breakwater.
The name “Fisherman’s Wharf” became associated with the pier around 1913 after Monterey’s first sardine cannery was built just west of the pier. The earliest concessions on the wharf also began about this time.
“Pop” Ernest’s opened in 1919 just to the right of the wharf entrance and was for many years the pier’s only restaurant. Specializing in abalone steaks and chowder served in an abalone shell, the place was presided over by the always immaculately uniformed “Pop” Ernest Doelter in his trademarks, a crisp white apron and red Turkish fez. The German native over the years was said to have entertained aviator Charles Lindbergh, writer Jack London and movie actress Claudette Colbert. Another restaurant, The Pilot, was added across the way on the left, and for years these were the wharf’s only two dining establishments. “Pop” Ernest’s building, which later became Cerrito’s Restaurant, burned in 1975. The Pilot, which still stands, became the Harbor House gift shop.
Right now, besides a stroll along this historic wharf to sightsee and shop, try taking the narrated, two-hour long Whale Watch cruise. The boats depart from Fisherman’s Wharf between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m., with some boat companies offering longer or specialty charter trips accompanied by a naturalist. On weekends, reservations are always recommended for this popular local pastime. Be sure to wear soft-soled shoes and bring a windbreaker, a hat and sunglasses.
A pair of binoculars will help spot the whales, since the boats are required to stay a safe 200 feet away. (For more information, contact: Chris’ Whale Watching Tours, 48 Fisherman’s Wharf, (831) 375-5951, www.chriswhalewatching.com; Monterey Bay Whale Watch, (831) 375-4658, www.montereybaywhalewatch.com; Monterey Whale Watching Cruises, 96 Fisherman’s Wharf , 1- 800-200-2203, (831) 372-2203, www.montereywhalewatching.com; Randy’s Fishing Trips, 66 Fisherman’s Wharf, 1-800-251-7440, (831) 372-7440, www.randysfishingtrips.com.)
Overlooking the colorful wharf scene, the venerable, sprawling Custom House faces the wharf entrance. Now a museum operated by State Parks, the Spanish government adobe’s first section was built in 1827. Distinguished as California’s oldest government building, it served during the Spanish and Mexican era as the only customhouse north of Mexico. After the United States claimed California, it became oldest government building west of Rockies and is now known as California’s State Landmark Number One.
Inside, visitors will find the space arranged to look much as it might have during its heyday in the 1830s, when the port of Monterey welcomed foreign cargo ships which brought in a variety of staples to the remote seacoast community. Townspeople turned out to welcome the arriving ships, always eager for new trade goods and fresh news brought from back home. That era is reflected with typical merchandise of the time stacked up as if for sale: barrels of crockery, sacks of flour, crocks of preserves, candles, tools, and yardage. These days, however, behind the counter, instead of a merchant or customs official, a guide is on duty. The Custom House is open from 10-3 daily except Tuesday and Wednesday. Admission is free.
Nearby, where outdoor picnic tables and shade trees await the day’s picnickers, walking paths lead from Old Fisherman’s Wharf over to the Coast Guard Pier and on to Cannery Row and the Monterey Bay Aquarium. In the opposite direction, beyond the boat marina, Municipal Pier offers a quieter stroll, and a less crowded space to spend a balmy afternoon gazing out to sea.
Thomas Larkin might not recognize the old wharf area today, but the landmark’s picture is found on postcards sent all over the world by visitors who come to stroll and enjoy the old pier’s numerous sights and sounds.
Information: Parking is always a problem in downtown Monterey. Look for metered parking for the wharf at the Municipal Wharf (Wharf No. 2) parking lot. On approaching downtown Monterey, follow Del Monte Avenue to Figueroa Street, which leads to Wharf No. 2. Public restrooms, also in short supply, are located at the entrance to Wharf No. 2, at the Harbormaster’s Offices near the boat marina, and at the far end of Old Fisherman’s Wharf.
