Mumbai (formerly Bombay) is a gritty, impossible, unforgettable
place. With almost 20 million souls, it is one of the most
populated cities in the world. It has child beggars, pavement
sleepers, urban slums, traffic, skyscrapers, fashionable apartment
blocks and the very poor.
Mumbai (formerly Bombay) is a gritty, impossible, unforgettable place. With almost 20 million souls, it is one of the most populated cities in the world. It has child beggars, pavement sleepers, urban slums, traffic, skyscrapers, fashionable apartment blocks and the very poor. There are also rich merchants, industrialists and film stars. It is India’s most cosmopolitan city. No city is more representative of this diversity than Mumbai, to which people from all parts of the country have gravitated.
A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME …
In 1498, the Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to India via the Cape of Good Hope. With a treaty signed in 1534, the Portuguese acquired the trading station of Bassein and its dependencies, including Salsette and the seven islands. The archipelago was named Bom Bahia (“Good Bay”) – and some say this is how Bombay got its name. There are two other theories: Some linguistic scholars hold that “Bombay” is a distortion of “Bimba,” the name of an early king; Others believe the city’s name to be a corruption of “Mumbai,” the protective goddess worshiped by the natives of that time.
THE GIFT
Early in the 17th century, the British arrived to trade and immediately came into conflict with the Portuguese. Fifty years later, the British acquired Mumbai (Bombay), not by force, but as a gift. Mumbai was included as part of a dowry of a Portuguese princess – Catherine of Braganza – when she married King Charles II of England in 1661.
During the 18th century the city developed as a trading station; from 1839, a more rapid expansion took place. The growing prosperity attracted immigrants from all over. Millions of settlers who flooded Mumbai in succeeding centuries helped make it not only the most cosmopolitan city in India, but the wealthiest.
Mumbai yields about a third of India’s income tax revenue, and about half of all the country’s revenue from air and sea trade. About a third of the city’s population is engaged in manufacturing and a fourth in trade or commerce.
MONSOONS AND WATER RATIONING
In spite of seasonal deluges (monsoon season arrives in June), the city suffers from chronic water shortages. Although there are lakes in the area used as reservoirs, they rely entirely on rain water to replenish them. Should the rains be less than usual in any year, the effect is felt immediately.
DELIGHTFULLY TRADITIONAL
Despite the fact that Mumbai is India’s commercial capital, it remains a traditional place at heart. It is a city where you may discover the dashboard of your taxi to be a miniature alter, hung with colorful lithographs of gods and goddesses; where each evening, the medieval fishing boats are silhouetted against the soaring glass and concert skyline of Nariman Point.
CULTURE, CINEMA AND … BIRTH CONTROL
There is always a dance, drama or a musical festival somewhere in the city. Bombay is also the center of India’s flourishing film industry. The cinema is a place where a great percentage of the population spends much of their recreational time. (Indira Gandhi maintained that the price of a cinema ticket should never change from six rupees. She felt that the cinema was one of the best forms of birth control.)
ENCHANTED TEMPLES, GLORIOUS VIEWS
The city is famous for its many temples, the best known being a ferry ride to the seventh century cave temples of Elephanta Island. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the caves have been cut into the heart of a massive rock-face. For fabulous views, visit Chowpatty Beach followed by a drive in the evening to the gardens on Malabar Hill for the view of Marine Drive and the lights of “The Queen’s Necklace.”
GOURMET’S DELIGHT
Mumbai offers restaurants serving western, continental and far eastern food, and range of entirely distinctive Indian cuisines. Try Dhansak, a Parsi specialty almost synonymous with Bombay. There is also a Gujarati Thali meal that should not be missed. It is served on a silver platter with a number of small bowls. These contain a variety of vegetable delicacies, curry, yogurt, condiments and sweets. They are eaten with rice or puris (crisply fried puffs of flour). (To be in the bounds of Indian etiquette, be very careful not to get your fingers above the first knuckle involved with the food.)
SHOPPING PARADISE
Mumbai is an exciting place to shop. Hunt for bargains in printed silks and handicrafts, cloths and leather goods at its smart boutiques and emporiums.
For a change of scene, wander through the city’s old bazaars. Jhaver Bazaar is the traditional Jeweler’s Market. At Chor Bazaar – the so-called “Thieves Market” – one can haggle over anything from a 19th century Russian chandelier to a gaily painted 18th century hand-cranked gramophone.
In the little shops of Bhuleswar, you can find a bewildering array of colorful glass bangles, embroidered saris and expensive jewelry. The shopkeeper will insist you have a soft drink, tea or coffee. He will not take no for an answer.
MUSEUMS AND ART GALLERIES GALORE
If museums and art galleries are your pleasure, visit a lovely, old, domed building that houses the Prince of Wales Museum, with its fine collection of miniature paintings, Nepali and Tebetan art and ancient Indian sculpture. The Jehangir Art Gallery is in an adjacent building where exhibitions of contemporary Indian painters are held.
Nearby you can find a charming little coffee shop that is a favorite gathering place for the city’s painters, students and poets. If you stroll toward the Hutatma Chowk, you will find the axis about which the entire city revolves. All traffic seems to converge here, and a policeman with a large shade umbrella sticking out of the cross straps of his uniform, guides it with the flair of a symphony conductor.
WHERE TO STAY
The Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, The Inter-Continental Hotel Marine Drive and the Inter Continental Lalit are all five-star choices. There are also many fine places with lower rates.
GETTING THERE
Air India and United/Continental Airlines are a few of the airlines offering flights to Mumbai.
Important Details
Please check with the appropriate offices for Visa and entry details; they can change daily. Take a current passport, especially if you plan to get back into the U.S. Keep in mind nothing can replace a knowledgeable travel agent to assist in your travel choices. They should also be able to assist you with your Visa, passport information and necessary shots.
